A very urban classical music concert

Today I went with a group of expats to see a classical music concert in a park. No one was sure what the park was called, but it was at "la flor", the flower, a very large metal sculpture. Apparently la flor isn't so well know, because our taxi driver wasn't quite sure where it was. It's quite a large sculpture, and nice enough, but as someone in the group said, it's not going to put Buenos Aires on the map:


It was a hot sweltering day here in BA -- around 95 degrees F -- so it was nice to spend the evening out in the park. The expats were great, there were plenty of blankets to sit on, and there was more than enough food and wine for everyone.

The orchestra is the orchestra from el Teatro Colon, the famous opera house here. It is an accomplished orchestra apparently, but they kept their music selections very mainstream -- Bizet's Carmen, Dvorak's New World Symphony, a very famous argentinian piece that escapes me, and, for the grand finale The Ride of the Valkyries by Wagner. The latter featured a little laser show, like something out of a 1978 Pink Floyd Concert.
Because Buenos Aires is a big crazy urban jumble, we appropriately weren't left alone in peace with our classical music in the park. As the concert was starting, there was this crazy thumping coming from about a quarter mile away, heavy throbbing bass, like a rave or something. But a rave it clearly wasn't, because it was too early, and somehow it ended after about a half hour. We were also only a couple hundred yards from an above ground train that went by about every 10 minutes, but that wasn't too loud. Lastly, we were only about a mile from the local airport, and every once in a while a plane came in our direction. This was loud, definitely a distraction.

But it's Buenos Aires, a gigantic urban agglomeration, and people are just used to lots of distractions, and remarkably tolerant of them. This is the lesson of big cities, after all -- we live with each other in close quarters, so we have to learn tolerance. If there's a plane going by, well, it's good we have the airport handy, people need to fly in and out. If there's a party in the park next door, well, it's good that those people, whoever they are, have a place to have a party.

Maybe i'm just being idealistic, but that seems to be the attitude here. It's certainly a different feel from the "not-in-my-backyard" gated community attitude so prevalent in the US.

Parque Chacabuco

Today I got to take a little walk around the delightfully named Parque Chacabuco. This was another example of finding buenos aires both rough around the edges and totally charming.

It's a mid-sized park with an elevated freeway running across the middle of it. There's some litter, the buildings are a little shabby, and there's a lot of dirt showing through the grass.

But just into the park i noticed a cat on the grass, then another, and then more. Turns out it's a place where they let stray cats run around and presumably feed them. (There was a sign telling the public not to feed them, so hopefully someone is.) Here's a picture of some of the cats:


There is another park near me in Palermo where they keep a bunch of feral cats. I think it's a part of the city's Italian heritage. The only other place I've ever seen domestic cats peacefully lounging around in public spaces like this is in Italy. I have to say, there is something charming and civilized about it. I do love dogs, but a bunch of wild dogs running around a park certainly would not be charming.

There are a number of brick buildings built under the freeway overpass running through the park. They're a little run-down, and there's a fair amount of graffiti. But the buildings are clearly serving the public. There is some kind of youth athletic program, probably with a gym or basketball court or something. There's also a big cheap restaurant, and what appears to be the offices of some artists association. Outside the latter is a little sculpture garden, they call it a sculpture patio. I don't know for sculpture, but these seem pretty good to me:

So, Parque Chacabuco, like so much of buenos aires, is definitely a little rough around the edges, but with a whole lot of character.

Buenos Aires -- Scruffier than you might think

I arrived in a rainy Buenos Aires at 7:30 am this morning after a long sleepless flight. And my first thought on driving was to remember previous first impressions -- this city is scruffier than you expect, every time. It's especially scruffy for being the new international "It" city.

But after a while you overlook the scruffiness, you become immune to it, just like you do in New York or in Portland or any other city. But when you first get here you notice that the air smells and it's chaotic and dirty and the traffic is bad and the drivers are nasty.

Here's a photo of some apartment blocks on the way in from the airport -- my first impression this morning:
Later in the afternoon, after a five-hour nap, i went out looking for more scruffiness. Even in this relatively fancy neighborhood I live in there's lots to be seen. Here's a sidewalk that you might see anywhere in the city:


Here's something I saw a block away -- some cool scruffiness:


This kitty photo is really firmly attached to the wall -- not just some piece of paper taped up. I This is some cool graffiti.

But then on the same walk I went further towards the parks of Palermo. Here's one example of the beautiful urban vistas you can come across:
And then I walked by this big building that appears to be a mosque, though I'm not sure. (Update -- it's definitely a mosque.) Last picture today, I promise:

Crazy traffic, crazy weather, crazy hustle and bustle. It's a real global city, half glorious european capital, half chaotic third world mega-sprawl. It's a pretty nice combination, though as a cyclist I could sure use a little less traffic. More on that another day.